Cutting Area (XL): 33"(X), 17"(Y), 3"(Z) Cutting Area (XXL): 33"(X) x 33"(Y) x 3"(Z) The kit includes everything you need to convert your standard machine to a larger version. Step 2 — Remove the controller shroud by removing the M6 socket head cap screws that keep it in place. [](/faq-image/4″ button head cap screws into the existing threaded standoffs that came with the stock kit (shown empty at the bottom of the plate in this image). You're much better off running NC switches to GND, but then you need the pull-up resistors (from each pin to IOREF, 1 Kohm or so). Also available on Digikey, Analog Devices, Carbide 3D: Shapeoko 3 Limit Switch Kit (contact Carbide 3D to order) ---, additional switches (N/O) --- wire in parallel. Design goals: 1.) When securing the wires with a zip tie, be sure to give the switch side some slack so the zip tie can provide strain relief. The limit switches will use the connector below. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/2cs22/2-conductor-shielded-cable-w/drain/1.html. Just bolt it together and you’re all set. 2 pieces of Misumi HFSQN4-15250-500 will perfectly fit an SO2. Homing switches are now standard on all Shapeokos. You can just run it next to the power cable for the shapeoko 3. If you have any difficulties with this see: http://docs.carbide3d.com/software-faq/home-switch-troubleshooting/. 4.) New Front and Back Plates New Cross Members Longer Extrusion(s) Longer Bel My Shapeoko Improvements on the Road to Aluminum - Project 43 - … That made a lot of dust – more than my vacuum could keep up with – and the dust got into the limit switches … Each limit switch is attached to a twisted-wire pair of black and yellow wires. The basic function of homing/limit switches is to set the origin of the machine for a given job, in relation to the work piece. The stepper motor cable from the shapeoko to the control box will use the connectors below. Again, the switch is mounted on the outside of the plate. The newest magnetic mounts do not need the limit switch block. If you’re having problems homing your machine, the limit switches are the first thing to check. See Touch Plate (which has a basic design, usage instructions as well as links to other designs and further information) and the elegant: Touch Plate v2 (which shows how to make a nice one using connectors and soldering). You may have just as much luck adding just a 4.7 uF capacitor to ground, but I don't like that idea for several reasons. In this picture the Z-axis springs have been removed for clarity. While tidying up, be certain to ensure that all switches are able to make contact with the machine and will be engaged when the machine approaches the limits of travel along that axis. The width of the mount tapers down so that it does … The Carbide3D Shapeoko Standard Robust CNC Router Kit is designed to be affordable enough for any shop and powerful enough to do real work. They were working pretty well until I did a job boring 66 largish holes in some MDF. The switches have a repeatability rating of .3mm (.012″) which is pretty good. As shown in the image below. The Z home/limit switch pin will be pin 12 if you have enabled the compile-time option for PWM spindle control on pin 11. My shapeoko 3 didn't come with them (early model). Shapeoko / Shapeoko2 / Shapeoko 3. Ensure that the head of the bolt is on the side opposite the X mark. Step 6 — Mounting the X axis Switch and Plate. Optical sensors don't require contact so the potential for damage is reduced, but calibration can be difficult. Probably good enough for most of what I do, though I might run some tests later to see what actually happens. Adding 6 limit switches (one at the end of each axis) is highly recommended. If your board has LEDs which indicate which switch is depressed, it is a good idea to verify that the switches are plugged in properly. Review the items below to help you identify what could be causing your limit switches not to trigger. I think the Uno has 20k internal pull-up resistors. Using The #10 spacers and button head cap screws, install the plate - as shown below. You can use most regular magnets; just pay attention to the pole(s) that activate it. Here are a few posts worth calling out: One can also use a prototyping shield: http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Proto-Shield-R3-Assembled/dp/B007QXTRNA/ref=pd_sim_pc_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=1CMZZMGFR2ZFKR0837PA [17]. Note the switch is on the inside of the plate. The instructions will help you install the limit switch kit sold through the Carbide 3D store. Description. Since the sensors need to be wired back to the microcontroller, it makes sense to mount them on the outsides of the axes. Note: This video is super obsolete. The Shapeoko 3 limit switch kit from Carbide 3D provides an easy and reliable way to add limit switches (home switches) to your current setup. http://docs.carbide3d.com/software-faq/home-switch-troubleshooting/, 1 × Z-Axis switch Plate (black anodized aluminum), 1 × X-Axis Switch Plate (black anodized aluminum), 1 × Y-Axis Switch Plate (black anodized aluminum), 3 × M3 × 16 Socket Head Cap screw (stainless steel), 3 × Microswitches - prewired and terminated into header(s), 4 × #10-24 × 1/4″ button head cap screws (stainless steel). Shown below is the location of all 3 homing switches mounted on your machine (X, Y, and Z). Also known as a tool setter: http://www.cad2gcode.com/cncprojects/id16.html, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/ [18], Cf. When installing the x-axis switch plate, you’ll be using the 2 M5 holes immediately above the V-wheel. A touch plate allows one to home the machine in the Z-axis. No disassembly of the axes to install parts, if possible. This product is discontinued and replaced by RB-CRB-94 an improved version. 5:25. [35] Another possibility is a poor connection between the gShield and the Arduino --- if all other connections are good, then try unplugging/replugging. One possible issue will be if I get false limit switch trips due to swarf getting into the switches. The clearance was set to .4 with fusion 360 but I was using a very long end mill Amana 46590 - a 4 inch with 2.75 reach to carve out a 3 inch thick block on top of 1/2 inch spoilboard on top of 1/2 aluminum base. Convert your standard Shapeoko 3 to a Shapeoko XL or Shapeoko XXL. One can instead use aluminum T-slot. Limit Switch Kit Assembly 3. "[3], Electromagnetic, at any rate. Browse: Sort by: Shapeoko HDZ $ 450.00 Shapeoko HD Eccentric Nuts (QTY 9) $ 15.00 Shapeoko HD 80MM Spindle Mount $ 80.00 Sold Out Shapeoko HD 65MM Spindle Mount $ 80.00 Quick Links. It may help to install the controller shroud before zip-tieing everything down. Kit to upgrade your Shapeoko 3 Standard to a Shapeoko XXL Robust; Comes with new cross members, front and back plates; Cutting Area (XXL): 33"(X) x 33"(Y) x 3"(Z) 3/4" MDF Wasteboard (2 piece for XXL) The Carbide3D Shapeoko 3 to Shapeoko XXL Expansion Pack includes everything you need to convert your standard machine to a larger version. Once the microswitch is installed, mount the entire plate to the front of the machine. It's easier than you think, and super useful. In noisy environments (which the shapeoko is in because of the stepper motors and spindle, probably other stuff too), the internal pull-up resistors are not as effective as lower ohm external pull-ups. It homes. The best proposed solution that emerged from all the collective fiddling with this seems to be an external pull-up (say 1 Kohm to IOREF), followed by a low-pass RC filter (say 10 Kohm in series and 100 nF ceramic to ground). There are pros and cons to each. But you must do your research on the components and some coding may be required. **! Use existing leftover M5 hardware. Extensive discussion in Skip's Shapeoko 2 #3181 Step 3 — Plug in connector to the 12 Pin header. Doesn't need to be RF necessarily -- could also be ground-coupling, or capacitive or inductive coupling from the fairly large currents and large voltage swings on the stepper driver wires. Limit Switches. 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